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The mountain has, according to official records, only one ascent. The route of the first ascent in September 2012 was through the southwest wall to the summit. Our plan was to climb this summit over its eastern side. Unfortunately we didn’t get permission for this route, so we had to climb the mountain from its western side. So far, very few expeditions in this area were traveling.
Already at the arrival we used the compression sock 2.0 to avoid swollen feet due to the long sitting. Thanks to the high percentage of merino wool, we were able to wear them during the approach and during some running units. Because they are so thin, fit perfect and do not have a seam, they were perfect for our expedition.
Warm toes on demand sounds like luxury, but it is irreplaceable when climbing in high altitudes. The lack of oxygen leads to a lack of energy in the tissue and at first the body saves the energy at the extremities. When the toes become cold at high altitudes, it’s hard to get them warm again without a foreign source of heat. Just before the last flank to the summit at about 6800m, my toes became numb from the cold. It was a blessing to turn on the heating of the heat sock 5.0 toe cap at that moment. I only used the heater when I really needed it, but always at the highest level. Once the toes were warmed up, I switched off the heating again. So the powerful lithium pack rcB 1800 held for the entire 22 hours of the tour and even at night to sleep.